Winter Driving Preparation Can Keep You Alive

March 7th, 2010

Winter driving can be extremely hazardous due to poor road conditions or reduced visibility from heavy or blowing snow or rain. During these times, travel is difficult if not dangerous, and often not recommended. However, many people still venture outdoors not knowing what they will encounter. This is why being properly prepared is a must–it may save your life and the lives of those traveling with you.

According to the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), the leading cause of death during winter storms are transportation accidents. Preparations for the winter season and knowing how to react if stranded or lost on the road are the keys to safe winter traveling.

Preferably before winter arrives; or least before a trip, have your car inspected to be sure it is ready for the road conditions. You can do this yourself or take it to a qualified mechanic. Check the battery, wipers and fluid, thermostat, brakes, ignition system, antifreeze, exhaust system, lights, oil level (remember to have winter grade oil), heater and defrosters. Make sure everything is operational to keep you safe throughout the cold weather or your trip.

Don’t forget to check the tires. Make sure the tires have adequate tread. All-weather radials are usually adequate for most winter conditions. However, some jurisdictions require that to drive on their roads, vehicles must be equipped with chains or snow tires with studs. Keep at least a half tank of gas in the car during the winter season.

Prepare an emergency kit to keep in the back of your car. This will ensure that you are prepared in the event that you get stuck in the snow. Things to include in the kit:

Ice scraper

Small broom

Small shovel

Set of tire chains or traction mats

Kitty litter or a bag of sand (to give traction if you get stuck in snow or ice)

Blankets or a sleeping bag

Flashlight with extra batteries

Flares or warning triangles

Plastic bags (for sanitation)

First aid kit

Tool kit

Matches/candles

Jumper cables

Bright cloth to use as a flag

Help sign for back window

Extra hat and gloves or mittens

Necessary medications

Canned food (with hand can opener) and bottled water to sustain you

A book, games, cards to keep you busy and calm in the event you get stuck

Charged cell phone (always carry this, especially in the winter)

If you are stranded, you may feel helpless, stuck in the snow in a lonely place, but there are things you can do to survive until help reaches you.

Stay in the car.

Do not leave the car to search for assistance unless help is visible within 100 yards. You may become disoriented and lost in blowing and drifting snow.

Display the help sign.

Hang the brightly colored cloth on the radio antenna and raise the hood.

Occasionally run engine to keep warm.

Turn on the car’s engine for about 10 minutes each hour. Run the heater when the car is running. Also, turn on the car’s dome light when the car is running.

Beware of carbon monoxide poisoning. Keep the exhaust pipe clear of snow, and open a downwind window slightly for ventilation.

Watch for signs of frostbite and hypothermia.

Do minor exercises to keep up circulation.

Try not to stay in one position for too long. If more than one person is in the car, take turns sleeping.

For warmth, huddle together.

Use newspapers, maps, and even the removable car mats for added insulation.

Cold weather puts an added strain on the heart. Avoid overexertion, such as trying to dig a car out of the snow.

Be aware of symptoms of dehydration.

Listen to the Weather Report before heading out. It can be a life saver.

Pay attention to the weather terms used.

Most used Winter Weather Terms

Winter Storm Warning: Issued when dangerous weather such as heavy snow, heavy freezing rain, or heavy sleet is about to happen or occurring. Winter Storm Warnings are usually issued 12 to 24 hours before the weather is expected to begin.

Winter Storm Watch: The possibility of a blizzard, heavy snow, heavy freezing rain, or heavy sleet is in the weather outlook. These Storm Watches are usually issued 12 to 48 hours before the beginning of a Winter Storm.

Winter Storm Outlook: Issued preceding a Winter Storm Watch. The Outlook is given when meteorologists believe circumstances can create a storm and are normally issued 3 to 5 days in advance.

Blizzard Warning: Issued for sustained or gusty winds of 35 mph or more, and falling or blowing snow limits visibility to one quarter mile or less; this situation should last for at least three hours.

Lake Effect Snow Warning: Issued when heavy lake effect snow is pending or occurring.

Wind Chill Warning: Issued when wind chill temperatures are anticipated to be perilous to life within several minutes of exposure.

Wind Chill Advisory: Issued when wind chill temperatures are expected to cause considerable difficulty to life with protracted exposure, and, if care is not taken could lead to life threatening exposure.

Winter Weather Advisories: Issued for accumulations of snow, freezing rain, freezing drizzle, and sleet which will cause considerable problems and could lead to critical situations.

Bad weather in winter driving requires you to be extra vigilant and prepared, but the most important tip for winter driving is slow down! Always allow plenty of time to get where you are going, and get off the road before you get stuck by severe weather.

RECOMMENDED RESOURCES:

The Weather Channel

http://www.weather.com/activities/driving/drivingsafety/drivingsafetytips/snow.html?from=iForecast

FEMA

http://www.fema.gov/hazard/winter/wi_during.shtm

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Exhaust Systems – What is Right for You

March 6th, 2010

Many people wonder one certain thing about exhaust systems. What is the right exhaust system for my car?

Many factors are involved in answering this question. After all, this system will be on the vehicle for some time. Look into factors involved such as who carries an exhaust system for your vehicle, the tone you want, your performance needs, and what works best with your motor. Also, for performance increases, headers will do justice.

Who Carries a System For Me

The first factor to look into is what exhaust system manufacturers carry for your particular vehicle. Not every system is made for every vehicle in existence. So you have to make sure that you look for exhausts system that will actually fit your vehicle. You will definitely not want a system that rattles around under your vehicle and annoy you to no end. Would not be a good thing.

What Sort of Tone Do I Want

The next factor you would want to look into is the tone of the system. Of course, if your looking into an exhaust system, your going to want a deep tone. We all know what the coffee can muffler tips sound like on 4 cylinder toys. Sounds like a weed wacker on steroids, definitely not what we are looking for here. However, not every system will give you the tone you are looking for. Many aspects go into a tone for you. Do you want the sound deeper inside the car? Or would you like the tone deeper outside to show off? Maybe a subtle tone that sounds mean and powerful? Or do you just want it plain deep and loud? Also remember that you do not want it to loud. Police Officers tend not to like exhaust systems like this. Neither do your neighbors for that matter.

Performance Always Rocks

Another factor you should consider is the performance you will receive from the system. What sort of system would produce the tone I want and make sure I am getting the power I want, as well. The power you need depends on what your situation is. Whether you need horse power or torque. If you own a beautiful truck you are going to want torque for that awesome pulling power. Of course, torque means nothing if you do not have some horse power to back it up. However, if its speed your looking for, then you will want to have a little more horse power with some torque to do something with that horse power.

Exhaust Diameter and Back Pressure Myth

Keep in mind that the diameter of the pipes are extremely important. There is a common myth that engines need back-pressure. Many believe that the more back-pressure the better. That is in no way true. In fact, engines perform extremely well with so little back-pressure that there is almost none. This myth probably came from import owners with Honda Civics and Eclipses with 3 inch diameter pipes. By doing this, there performance was reduced. They figured that they had less back-pressure that since there performance was reduced back-pressure is good. What happened was that these giant pipes did not reduce back-pressure but actually increased it. Less back-pressure means its creating a vortex of sorts. Think of a vehicle going down a gravel road. This vehicle kicks up dust and swirls around behind the car. Directly behind the car is less pressure therefore the dust actually trails behind the car. The proof in that the dust follows the vehicle is think of when this vehicle stops. The dust still moves forward in the same direction you were traveling. This same effect goes on inside your exhaust. Getting an exhaust to big can actually decrease your performance and increase back-pressure. Think of having a large straw and blowing through it. Now take a smaller straw and blow through it. You will find its easier, unless the straw is extremely small. So you must make sure that you have the right diameter.

For 4-cylinder motors, a good size is generally between 1 3/4 inches to 2 1/4 inches. For 6-cylinder, a good general size is between 2 inches to 2 3/4 inches. 8-cylinders have a good range between 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inches. You could possibly get away with a 3-inch pipe on a V8, as well. Again, this all depends on the motor you have and what works well.

Do I Really Need New Headers



Essentially, you do not need new headers. However, many people have found that with the right headers, you are going to get a huge power increase and an even better sound. After all, that pesky manifold does not do much good in terms of performance. Headers have been something that has long be ignored in exhaust systems, but have gained much ground in today’s market. Headers can only make your awesome exhaust system that much better. If new headers do not do you justice either; the only other step would be to look into head. Possibly a port and polish of your exhaust ports.

Conclusion

When it boils down to it, there is no right or wrong in the exhaust system you choose. There is, however, stupidity. Such as putting a 3-inch pipe on a 4-cylinder car. Though, it all depends on your personal preference. You want to make sure your going to get the right size of piping. Your performance should always a crucial factor in your decision. You also want to make sure that you are going to get the tone you want, whether it be a subtle tone or a nice deep tone. As well, you have to make sure that the system you want is available for your vehicle. After you have the right system for you, your next step is to look into the majestic headers. When all that is said and done. Your going to want to look into your intake system. After all, more air in plus more air out equals greater power.

Exhaust systems can be found at Custom Performance Exhaust Parts [http://www.deoxcustoms.com]

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Efficiency Equals Economy

March 2nd, 2010

Hydrogen can appear to be the answer to our fuel problem, unless we’ve looked at the big picture. I saw a comment to an article I was reading about BMW and a hydrogen car they were supposedly going to market next year. The person asked why we didn’t have a full-on hydrogen car in the US. I guess my question is: where are you going to get fuel? The infrastructure for hydrogen, as a stand alone system, is beyond the horizon. We should be looking for alternatives, in fact we should have started doing that in the 1970’s with the first energy crisis. Hydrogen, even small amounts, increases the efficiency of other fuels. Most automotive hydrogen is produced by splitting hydrogen and oxygen from a water source that includes a catalyst. The overall gain, from working with various systems of that type, is 5% to 8%. Any gain is good, but that’s a long ways from stand alone.

The key is efficiency, which brings us to other items that aren’t as difficult to obtain, like octane. A simplified explanation follows. The higher the octane, the more efficient the combustion. The slower the burn, to a certain point, the higher the octane. Water vapor slows the burn and increases octane. On a foggy day there is a higher percentage of water vapor in the air, increasing horsepower. The horsepower increase on a foggy day is due to increased efficiency which is due in a round about way to the octane increase. When octane is increased, the timing can be advanced, which contributes to an earlier spark and the opportunity for a longer burn.

Computerized cars, after 1996, have OBDll, and later, compliant computers. Computers, if matched to the right system, will due all the changes. You don’t have to advance and retard the timing or rejet the carburetor for different altitudes and conditions because the computer does that for you. With the right system you don’t have to do anything to the computer. The computer sensors monitor the exhaust and lean the mixture if the engine is running cool enough. 60% to 80% of the fuel that goes into the engine is used to cool internal parts. Water is about 200 times more efficient at cooling than gasoline or diesel.

I was watching a NASCAR race and one of the commentators made the statement that “all the horsepower is in the camshaft and cylinder head(s).” That statement, in the way it was worded, in not correct. A large percentage of the horsepower is in the camshaft and cylinder head(s), but not all. There’s a reason the fuel they burn is rated at 99 octane. The slower the burn, the more complete the combustion.

A engine has to “breathe” to be efficient. Like the human body, if the airways are fouled or restricted, the human body and the engine aren’t capable of reaching maximum efficiency. Water vapor steam cleans internal engine parts. It breaks carbon off the valves and pistons and flushes it out the exhaust while cleaning the exhaust system in the process. If water vapor is introduced at the right place in the intake system, it cleans the passages, mixes with the fuel and increases octane. Higher efficiency results in more HP and better fuel economy.

Going back to hydrogen, there is a hydrogen producing system that’s as close to free energy as you can get. It seems to make sense to use what’s already available, as opposed to wasting it and expending other energy to produce more. A high priced, high tech vehicle isn’t necessary. But, to make everything work at the optimum, you need to have all the information and not just one piece of the puzzle.

Larry R. Miller has been a championship race car driver, much sought after automotive mechanic, businessman since 1967, freelance writer since 1982 and has taught classes on increasing fuel economy that have cost hundreds of dollars . He has a DVD that is a copy of a class and can be accessed at http://www.mileageman1.com

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